Peel Season is Upon Us: Expertise, Proper Formulation, and Timing are Key to Optimal Aesthetic Outcomes

Unlocking Radiant Skin: The Science and Benefits of Chemical Peels

Chemical peels can be customizable and complimentary to any patient’s skin concerns while being beneficial to all skin types, including sensitive ones. They can be offered to patients as a great introduction to in-office treatments, while also being cost-effective and requiring less recovery time than other resurfacing modalities.

Chemical peels are also easy to integrate and can enhance or maintain in-office procedures and corrective skincare regimens. They are an efficient method to resurface and regenerate the skin, and in turn, can address signs of aging (such as hyperpigmentation and photoaging) and refine skin texture and radiance.¹

SkinCeuticals offers a comprehensive and full range of high-concentration treatments tailored to patient-specific needs for individualized results. It is important to educate patients on their options and the value of choosing an experienced provider to perform the precise application technique of a chemical peel. Kachiu Lee, MD, discusses the fine blend of science, aesthetic vision, and timing of procedures she employs to help her patients achieve optimal aesthetic outcomes on the face and body.

— Lyndsay Zotian, Pharm.D./M.B.A
Senior Director, Medical Affairs

What is the ideal “peel season” and why?

Kachiu Lee, MD, MPH: Specific timing for a chemical peel always depends on the type of peel, patient skin type, and the condition that is being treated, such as acne, PIH, lentigines, and photodamage. Though chemical peels can be performed year-round, they’re ideal for fall, winter, or spring because it’s easier for patients to manage sun exposure afterward. Chemical peels remove the epidermis, leaving the treated areas slightly more sensitive to excessive sunlight. Reducing post-peel sun exposure can minimize the risk of post-peel hyperpigmentation.

How should dermatologists in areas without distinct seasons advise patients on peels?

Dr. Lee: Superficial chemical peels are safe year-round, as long as patients agree to avoid excessive sun exposure. This doesn’t mean that they have to hide at home after getting a peel, but it does mean that they should wear a broad-spectrum mineral sunscreen like SkinCeuticals’ Physical Fusion UV Defense SPF 50.

How do you determine good chemical peel candidates--and what alternatives do you offer patients for whom peels are not advised?

Dr. Lee: There’s a peel for almost everyone! Because superficial peels are safe for people of color, they’re a great alternative for people in which other cosmetic treatments may not be safe. All peel candidates should have realistic expectations: a peel isn’t going to reverse you 10 years or get rid of your eye bags, but it will help to improve the texture and glow of your skin. The only people who I avoid peeling are ones with an active skin infection (herpes labialis) or inflammatory disease process, such as eczema or psoriasis. For these patients, I’ll advise them to wait until the skin infection or inflammatory disease has cleared.

How do you manage pain before, during, and after peels?

Dr. Lee: Peels can itch, sting, or burn during the procedure. Cool compresses and/or cold air after the peel can be helpful for the discomfort. After the peel—again—sunscreen is critical. In addition, the SkinCeuticals post-chemical peel system, including the Glycolic Renewal Cleanser (8% glycolic acid-free acid value) and the Glycolic 10 Renewal Overnight (10% glycolic acid-free acid value) both help to maintain the results of the peel. Daily Phloretin CF adds an antioxidant component to protect against free radicals generated from UV radiation.

What are some of the newest industry innovations and research in the advancement of chemical peel science and skincare products that you’re most excited about?

Dr. Lee: I’m excited about the potential for chemical peels off of the face. In the past, the neck used to reveal a person’s true age. Now, a person’s hands, along with their brown spots, photodamage, and volume loss, can reveal their true age. When used appropriately, chemical peels may successfully treat, and often correct, a number of concerns on the body.²

Patients typically experience mild peeling and dryness afterward, but they’ll see a noticeable reduction in age spots and improvement in skin texture after three treatments.

We recently conducted a study of 20 patients with lentigines on their hands, which we treated with 3 sessions using the Smart TCA System which all of our patients reported a high level of satisfaction after this treatment.³

1. Soleymani, T., Lanoue, J., & Rahman, Z. (2018). A Practical Approach to Chemical Peels: A Review of Fundamentals and Step-by-step Algorithmic Protocol for Treatment. The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 11(8), 21-28.

2. Baker, Anna and Lorna Bowes. “Chemical peels for the body: a review of selected ingredients and indications.” Journal of Aesthetic Nursing 6 (2017): 234-240.

3 . Data on file at SkinCeuticals.