Update on Skincare and Nutraceuticals

What “hot” skincare trends do you endorse?

Jeanine B. Downie, MD: Nationwide as well as around the world, cosmeceuticals sales have jumped anywhere between 40 and 60 percent of pre-COVID levels. This is because people are looking at themselves on Zoom and do not like the way their skin looks; they may have a bit more time and are focused on their skin care. Both women and men want hydration, moisturization, and the glowing skin that they perceive celebrities and other people to have.

Everybody wants a more glowing, even skin tone, and they are worried about hydration. More people are doing chemical peels, laser procedures, and using cosmeceuticals with hyaluronic acid, retinoids, growth factor, and most importantly sunscreen, than ever before.

Jason Bloom, MD:Arnica montana pills or sublingual tablets are a trend that patients are asking about to help decrease “down time” with injectables and/or surgery. They can be taken for about four to five days before and after treatment to reduce bruising and swelling. I have been working with a company called MEND Nutrition on a nutraceutical product (a shake) to improve recovery with cosmetic surgical procedures. We are trying to take that a step further to create a cosmetic supplement that can be taken around injectable treatments to help reduce the risk of swelling and bruising. I give it to all of my facial rejuvenation surgery patients.

Vivian Bucay, MD: I like that younger patients are taking an interest in skin care for preventive reasons. They are interested in ingredients and the rationale for their use—the information generation. Patients want effective skincare products and realize that cost does not always equate with efficacy, while still willing to pay for quality products.

What “hot” skincare trends you would you rather patients avoid?

Dr. Downie: I would have patients avoid using the hyaluron pen, which can inject small amounts of hyaluronic acid into the face or lips. This has caused infection, permanent scarring, and disfigurement in many people and I would not recommend it. If you want filler with hyaluronic acid, go into the office of a board-certified dermatologist or plastic surgeon that has experience with your skin type and get injected properly.

Dr. Bloom: Taking lots of supplements and herbal medications is popular right now, and patients may not always tell their doctors or surgeons about them, thinking they are “just herbal.” It is important to review all these herbals and cosmeceuticals to make sure that they don’t increase the risk of bleeding or bruising. Herbals like garlic, ginkgo biloba, ginseng, fish oil, etc. should be avoided.

Dr. Bucay: The “clean beauty” trend has caused some of our patients to steer away from proven and safe skincare essentials, such as sunscreens. There is nothing wrong with being proactive and doing one’s own research. That said, “clean beauty” is a marketing trend; patients don’t realize these products do not undergo any type of regulatory scrutiny because cosmetics are not drugs.

Do you recommend any products specific to hair or nail care?

Dr. Downie: For hair care, I recommend the Nutrafol group of products to my patients all the time and I’ve been taking it personally for six years. I recommend Lambdapil hair density shampoo and spray for my patients, and I recommend the Lutronic Keralase hair growth laser, which I have used personally on myself for approximately a year and a half. These are three products that help to increase the density of the hair follicles, decrease hair breakage, decrease hair shedding and grow hair which is what many people want especially as we begin to age.

I don’t recommend anything specific for nails besides the Dermanail product, which can decrease breakage of nails.

Dr. Bloom: We have been fans of Nutrafol supplementation. There is excellent science surrounding the product, and we include it with every hair transplantation and PRF treatment. I like that there are three formulations (Mens, Womens, and Womens Balance) to match patients more specifically. Additionally, I have formulated a proprietary blend of ingredients to create a line of hair care products (shampoo, conditioner, and serums) that are specifically designed to match a patient’s scalp type and help with hair restoration. This line is called Hairapy and will launch in early 2022.

Dr. Bucay: I recommend hair growth supplements like Nutrafol and Viviscal because they are backed by clinical studies. I have taken both, and they work.

What new or forthcoming products are you most excited about?

Dr. Downie: I am very excited about upcoming topical tranexamic acids that will help to even out the skin tone more, hopefully with limited side effects.

Dr. Bloom: I love the Alastin Skincare products and I just got their latest three products for patients with sensitive skin. I love the idea of a creating a sensitive skin line with the same benefits of the other Alastin Skincare products. Also, I am really excited about the launch of our Hairapy hair care/scalp care products.

Dr. Bucay: There are so many great and effective cosmeceuticals on the market that there is something for everyone. The hot trend right now focuses on products for sensitive skin, meaning skin that is reactive to a variety of triggers. This is especially relevant today as we gain an increasing understanding of the role that environmental pollutants play on the skin, triggering redness, irritation, and discoloration.

What product have you added to your personal regimen?

Dr. Downie: I have added no new nutraceuticals to my skincare regimen. I continue to take Nutrafol daily and have taken Heliocare for a while as well.

Dr. Bloom: Personally, I like my skincare regimen to be very easy and straightforward. I don’t have a lot of time for many different steps. I have used Alastin Skin Nectar for a long time and especially after shaving. Recently, I added Mens Solo Hydrating Defense by Skinbetter Science to my morning and night regimen, and I have really been loving it. It is a great product for men on the go, like me, who want something easy for their skin that works.

Dr. Bucay: As dermatologists, we are fortunate to receive products ahead of their launch. The most recent addition to my personal regimen is Techno Neck Perfecting Cream (Skinbetter Science) for the neck and décolleté, and here comes the lengthy “why.” This neck product contains proven ingredients like niacinamide (the second ingredient on the list) along with patented NOw Complex, which is a blend of adenosine, carnosine, and arginine and other proprietary ingredients that work together to increase nitric acid availability. Arginine can be converted to nitric oxide, so increasing the skin’s reservoir of arginine allows the body to convert it to nitric oxide as needed. Nitric oxide (NO) plays a key role in maintaining homeostasis in all cells, including skin cells. Nitric oxide availability declines with age, which leads to a 40 percent reduction in blood flow (which delivers oxygen and nutrients) to the skin between the ages of 20 to 70 years. Reduced nitric oxide levels in the skin lead to signs of photodamage, such as fine lines and wrinkles, dryness, discoloration, and crepiness.