In Focus: Beauty Trends

STUDY: RACIALIZED BEAUTY NORMS HARM WOMEN OF COLOR

A survey conducted as part of a community-based participatory research project indicated that racialized beauty norms may motivate some people’s use of chemical hair straighteners and skin lighteners linked to poor health outcomes.¹ Data analysis was led by researchers at Columbia University Mailman School of Public Health in close partnership with the environmental justice group We Act for Environmental Justice, which also led the design and execution of the study. The researchers surveyed 297 women and femme-identifying individuals in Northern Manhattan and the South Bronx.

Participants answered questions on their use of chemical straighteners and skin lighteners, the messages they received about hairstyles and skin tone from peers and family members, and their sentiments toward and perceptions of societal beauty norms.

Forty-four percent of female respondents and 34% percent of femme-identifying respondents reported having ever used chemical straighteners. Current use of these products was lower at 15% and 13%, respectively. Black respondents were most likely to use chemical straighteners. Among non-Hispanic Black respondents, 60% and 19% reported ever and currently using the products, respectively. Among Hispanic Black respondents, 48% and 24% reported ever and currently using the products, respectively. Half of all respondents said they think others believe straight hair makes women more beautiful; 36% of respondents said they personally felt this way.

Twenty-five percent of female respondents and 22% of femme-identifying respondents reported having ever used skin lighteners. Current use was lower at 16% and 9%, respectively. Asian respondents reported the highest frequency of skin lightener use. Skin lightener use among Asian and Hispanic respondents was higher for those born outside the United States. Half of respondents said others find light skin more beautiful; 33% of respondents reported personally feeling this way.

Chemical straighteners, such as relaxers, can contain harmful chemicals such as phthalates, parabens, and formaldehyde. Studies have linked relaxer use with earlier age at menarche and increased risk of uterine fibroids and breast and uterine cancers.^2-6 Skin lighteners can contain corticosteroids, which can disrupt cortisol regulation and lead to metabolic problems,⁷ and mercury, which can cause kidney and nervous system damage.⁸

“Programs and policies are needed to counteract natural hair discrimination and colorism and transform the markets that depend on racist beauty norms,” Ami Zota, PhD, an associate professor of environmental health sciences at Columbia Mailman School of Public Health and an author of the study, said in a news release. “Educating consumers about racialized beauty norms could motivate them to advocate for legislation, such as the Safer Beauty Bill package, which ensures safer products for all.”

1. Edwards L, Ahmed L, Martinez L, et al. Beauty Inside Out: examining beauty product use among diverse women and femme-identifying individuals in Norther Manhattan and South Bronx through an environmental justice framework. Environ Justice. Published online January 18, 2023. doi:10.1089/env.2022.0053

2. Pierce JS, Abelmann A, Spicer LJ, et al. Characterization of formaldehyde exposure resulting from the use of four professional hair straightening products. J Occup Environ Hyg. 2011;8(11):686-699.

3. Helm JS, Nishioka M, Brody JG, Rudel RA, Dodson RE. Measurement of endocrine disrupting and asthma-associated chemicals in hair products used by Black women. Environ Res. 2018;165:448-458.

4. McDonald JA, Tehranifar P, Flom JD, Terry MB, James-Todd T. Hair product use, age at menarche and mammographic breast density in multiethnic urban women. Environ Health. 2018;17(1):1.

5. Rao R, McDonald JA, Barrett ES, et al. Associations of hair dye and relaxer use with breast tumor clinicopathologic features: findings from the Women’s Circle of Health Study. Environ Res. 2022;203:111863.

6. Wise LA, Palmer JR, Reich D, Cozier YC, Rosenberg L. Hair relaxer use and risk of uterine leiomyomata in African-American women. Am J Epidemiol. 2012;175(5):432-440.

7. Masub N, Khachemoune A. Cosmetic skin lightening use and side effects. J Dermatolog Treat. 2022;33(3):1287-1292.

8. Weldon MM, Smolinski MS, Maroufi A, et al. Mercury poisoning associated with a Mexican beauty cream. West J Med. 2000;173(1):15-8; discussion 19.

ISAPS DATA: UNITED STATES IS PLASTIC SURGERY CAPITAL OF THE WORLD

In 2021, US plastic surgeons performed the most plastic surgery procedures worldwide (24.1% of the total), according to data from the International Society of Aesthetic Plastic Surgery (ISAPS). Brazil and Japan placed second and third with 8.9% and 5.7% of the total, respectively. Liposuction overtook breast augmentation to become the most popular plastic surgery procedure worldwide, with 1.9 million procedures and a 24.8% increase from 2020.

ISAPS reported a 19.3% overall increase in procedures performed by plastic surgeons in 2021, with more than 12.8 million surgical—and 17.5 million nonsurgical—procedures performed worldwide. These statistics demonstrate a recovery from 2020. The ISAPS report also showed a continuing rise in aesthetic surgery, with a 33.3% increase over the past 4 years.

According to the ISAPS data, botulinum toxin remained the most common nonsurgical procedure for men and women and across all age groups, with more than 7 million procedures performed by plastic surgeons worldwide.

WINNERS OF the 2022 BYRDIE BEAUTY AWARDS

Byrdie’s editors tested, analyzed, and declared winners for an exhaustive list of 109 different beauty categories, all designed to help readers identify the best in beauty, as part of the 2022 Byrdie Beauty Awards or “The Byrdies.”

Categories included best cleansing balm (Eadem Dew Dream Cleansing Balm); best overnight mask (U Beauty The Barrier Bioactive Treatment); best multiuse makeup product (Danessa Myricks Beauty Colorfix Eye, Cheek & Lip Cream Pigment); best hair oil (Squigs Gooseberry Delight Hair Oil), and best eyeliner under $25 (Half Magic’s Magic Flik Liquid Eyeliner).

After testing hundreds of products, Byrdie’s 10 editors collaborated with six guest beauty expert judges to choose the honorees. Winners were selected based on three criteria: efficacy, overall value, and “that special something”—an indescribable factor that makes a product a favorite.

Each winner profile included tags to identify the product’s additional characteristics, such as whether it is vegan; cruelty-free; made with sustainable practices; Black-, Asian American and Pacific Islander–, or Latinx-owned; and/or has a charitable element.

The product categories were accompanied by 10 categories of beauty pros who were named Byrdie’s chosen leaders in the beauty space for 2022:

• The Influencer: Emira D’Spain, @xoxoemira;
• The Founder: Priyanka Ganjoo, founder, Kulfi Beauty, @priyankaganjoo;
• The New Guard: Hamah Harris, creator, Brown Girl Hands, @hannahharris__;
• The Makeup Artist: Nina Park, @ninapark;
• The Nail Artist: Zola Ganzorigt, @nailsbyzola;
• The Hairstylist: Jawara Wauchope, @jawaraw;
• The Esthetician: Kristyn Smith, @ksmithskin;
• The Dermatologist: Michelle Henry, MD, FAAD, @drmichellehenry;
• The Educator: Ranella Hirsch, MD, FAAD, @ranellamd; and
• The Formulator: Ron Robinson, chemist/CEO of BeautyStat and cosmetic chemist in residence at Rhode.