From Anti-Aging to Longevity: A New Framework for Skin Health
Longevity science is reshaping how we think about aging in aesthetics. Rather than focusing on correcting visible signs of age, the field is increasingly examining the biological processes that influence how well tissues function over time. L’Oréal Research & Innovation is leading the charge in connecting longevity with skin, building on more than 20 years of research in these areas to help SkinCeuticals deliver the most advanced products in aesthetics.
Central to this work is the evolving understanding of the “hallmarks of aging,” a framework encompassing biological processes associated with aging at the cellular and molecular levels.1-3 L’Oréal is studying a broad range of interconnected factors involving the skin, including cellular metabolism, epidermal renewal, inflammation, epigenetics, extracellular matrix organization, glycation, immune defenses, hormones, and the microbiome. Researchers are also considering how these processes interact with intrinsic characteristics, lifestyle, and environmental exposures.
One important area of investigation is ultraviolet exposure. Research has linked daily long-wave ultraviolet A (UVA) exposure with multiple longevity-related biological changes, including fibroblast senescence, genomic instability, mitochondrial dysfunction, oxidative stress, chronic inflammation, and extracellular matrix remodeling.4,5 These changes may ultimately manifest clinically as wrinkles, sagging, pigmentation, and unevenness.
L’Oréal is also investigating potential biomarkers of skin aging. A study of 351 women aged 18 to 75 years evaluated more than 1,000 skin-surface proteins and identified proteins associated with accelerated aging.6 Separately, microbiome research has examined associations among microbial diversity, chronological age, and crow’s-feet wrinkles.7-15
L’Oréal is bringing these findings together through its Longevity AI Cloud, which analyzes over 260 skin biomarkers to predict and identify high-potential actives with specific effects on longevity. Its proposed intervention framework encompasses three strategies: anticipate molecular alterations, intercept changes in cellular function, and reset processes at the tissue level. The result is a broader conception of skin care: moving beyond treating the appearance of aging toward understanding, the biology underlying how skin ages.
— Alison A. Murakami, PhD, VP and Head, Medical Affairs
How should skin be considered in the grand scheme of longevity with the hallmarks of aging?
Dr. Olivero: Aging is a systemic process, with inter-connected organs aging predictably when taken as a whole. That highlights the critical connection between skin and overall health. Skin has long been known as a reflection of our health and vitality, and recent stud-ies show that it can also be an important predictive marker of our health.
How does L’Oréal leverage its long-standing scientific expertise in skin biology to pioneer advancements in the longevity science space?
Dr. Olivero: By looking at the interconnections between skin longevity hallmarks, biomarkers, and pathways, we can predict the impact of active ingredi-ents, alone or in combination, on the 10 key hallmarks of aging we consider most relevant for beauty. We call these 10 hallmarks, the L’Oréal Longevity Wheel of beauty. That allows us to design longevity interventions tailored to a specific biological age and to act simultane-ously across multiple hallmarks and biological processes.
How do you advise patients on the combination of external, internal, and lifestyle factors that impact their skin longevity?
Dr. Gold: Dermatologists have done this forever, right? We talk about limiting sun exposure, making healthy lifestyle choices, and following post-procedure instructions, but patients do not always follow our recommendations. With longevity, as with anything, we just need to give them the best information. That can be difficult in such a rapidly evolving field, so we all need to do our homework.
What scientific insights has L’Oréal R&I uncovered regarding the impact of environmental aggressors on the key biological hallmarks?
Dr. Olivero: Our research shows that skin aging needs to be understood across several biological levels. At the structural level, external aggressors together with epigenetic changes can compromise DNA within cells. At the molecular level, protein function is affected, reducing mitochondrial ener-gy production. At the level of cellular communication, damaged cells send inflammatory signals that disrupt com-munication, ultimately contributing to tissue decline and visible signs of aging.
What should aesthetic providers know about the epigenetic effects of laser treatments?
Dr. Gold: We know the fundamentals of how our lasers work,13 and we have been doing regenerative medicine for a long time in that regard; we just never called it that. We know that energy-based devices are changing the collagen and elastin tissue. The epigenetic part of it, now, involves how the DNA gets methylated and affects gene transcription. What are the histones? How do they and the micoRNAs effect everything? We are going from fixing the problem to fixing the cell.
What strategies are most effective in addressing skin longevity, and what do you think will be most effective in the future?
Dr. Olivero: The first principle is skin healthspan: extending the period of optimal skin function rather than only addressing visible signs of aging. It is a proactive approach designed to maintain healthy skin function for as long as possible. The second is targeting the root causes of aging at the cellular and molecular levels. And the third is becoming increasingly predictive and personalized—using advanced diagnostics to assess biological age and anticipate future skin needs so interventions can be tailored to the individual.
Dr. Gold: Combination therapy is best, but that is only half of the story. Lasers and biostimulatory fillers will not achieve the best outcomes if you do not use proper skincare and sunscreen. Look closely at the companies in the skincare space and evaluate the evidence they have shown. I don’t care how nice a cream feels on my skin; I want to know what it does to my skin. Show me how it penetrates the skin and works from there. If you are a device or skincare company getting into the longevity space, you need to publish, and then we need to study the combination of the device and the skincare product to see if outcomes are actually enhanced.
From a clinical perspective, given that patients are investing in longevity interventions—from those backed by credible data to those with little to no support—how do you educate patients on what is scientifically validated versus unsupported hype in your practice?
Dr. Gold: This is hard because patients put so much stock into Google and peer recommendations. Not only do you need publications, but you need reputable ones. Doctors need to look at where the science is being published and what the peer-review process was. I try to be very picky; when I tout a product, it is because I have done the research to be confident in how it works.
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