Skin of Color Society Media Day Analyzes Latest Trends

In an era of misinformation and viral skincare fads, the Skin of Color Society’s (SOCS) 8th Annual Media Day offered a timely and authoritative voice, gathering top board-certified dermatologists to address critical dermatologic topics relevant to patients with skin of color. From trending TikTok treatments to the latest in hair loss therapies and aesthetics, the event served as both a fact-check and a deep dive into advances in dermatologic care.

“Education is more important than ever in this age of misinformation,” said SOCS President Nada Elbuluk, MD, MSc, FAAD, “and we greatly value your participation to help educate audiences about important topics affecting individuals with skin of color.”

WHAT’S HOT AND WHAT’S NOT

Brittany Oliver, MD, FAAD, and Dhaval Bhanusali, MD, FAAD, kicked off the program with a myth-busting session called “Trending Topics in Skin of Color: What’s Hot, What’s Not!” during which they examined some of social media’s most persistent skincare trends.

Beef tallow, once used for candle-making, has found new life as a DIY moisturizer, Dr. Oliver and Dr. Bhanusali noted, but they emphasized the need for caution.

“There are reasons to hesitate,” Dr. Oliver said. “Lack of regulation, variable sourcing, and concerns about clogged pores make this a solid ‘not hot’ from me.”

Rosemary oil was another trend about which they expressed concern.

“Where do we think it’s a bad ingredient? Probably not,” Dr. Bhanusali said. “But the one study everyone cites is weak and compares it to 2% minoxidil, when most dermatologists recommend 5%.”

On the trend of tween and teen skincare routines exploding on social platforms, Dr. Oliver noted that younger children are becoming marketing targets.

“Some are even using sheet masks designed for toddlers,” she said. “What message are we sending them?”

Dr. Bhanusali also discussed exosomes but reminded attendees that enthusiasm must be tempered with science.

“We really want it to work,” he said, “but there’s too much we don’t know. What’s in the bag? Where’s it from? It’s too soon to recommend broadly.”

Dr. Oliver explored promising new ingredients for treating hyperpigmentation, such as 2-mercapto-nicotinamide glycine (2-MNG) and isobutyl-thiol.

“We’re always looking for more tools in the toolkit,” she said. “I plan to start integrating these in my practice. The early studies are promising.”

AESTHETICS TAILORED FOR SKIN OF COLOR

Dr. Elbuluk and Nkem Ugonabo, MD, MPH, led a dynamic session on aesthetic treatments in patients with skin of color. Their core message was that safety in aesthetic procedures requires the proper expertise.

“Melanocytes in richly pigmented skin are more labile,” Dr. Ugonabo said. “That makes post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation a bigger risk after any procedure.”

Treatments such as chemical peels, injectables, ultrasound, and radiofrequency devices can be safe and effective with the right clinician, they said.

“Peels are one of my favorite procedures,” Dr. Elbuluk said. “They're affordable and work well for pigment, acne, and overall texture when done correctly.”

Dr. Ugonabo showed before-and-after images of laser and filler procedures, reinforcing the need for customized, lower-energy protocols.

“Every procedure must be tailored,” she said. “One-size-fits-all doesn’t work for skin of color.”

BREAKTHROUGHS AND CULTURAL CONTEXT FOR HAIR

Prince Adotama, MD, and Victoria Barbosa, MD, MPH, MBA, FAAD, tackled the increasingly hot topic of hair loss with both clinical expertise and cultural sensitivity.

Dr. Adotama reviewed androgenetic alopecia in men, highlighting both approved treatments and off-label therapies.

“I always tell my patients early intervention is key,” he said. “I can’t take you from Stage 7 to Stage 1.”

They also addressed pseudofolliculitis barbae (razor bumps), disproportionately affecting Black men.

“Laser hair removal is still the gold standard,” Dr. Adotama said, “but less than 20% of cases are covered by insurance. That’s a problem.”

Dr. Barbosa discussed conditions more common among Black women, including central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia (CCCA) and frontal fibrosing alopecia (FFA).

“CCCA is the most common condition you’ve never heard of, until you get it,” she said.

On alopecia areata, she was more optimistic.

“We’ve entered a new era,” she said. “JAK inhibitors are changing lives, and the sooner we start, the better the outcomes.”

Still, traction alopecia, which is often dismissed as self-inflicted, remains the most common form.

“It’s 100% preventable,” Dr. Barbosa said, “but so many women think it’s normal to lose their edges.”

SKIN CANCER AND SUNSCREEN MYTHS

Rebecca Vasquez, MD, FAAD, and Corey Hartman, MD, FAAD, closed the program with a reality check: yes, people with skin of color get skin cancer.

“While it's less common, when skin cancer happens in people of color, it’s often diagnosed later,” Dr. Vasquez said. “That means more invasive treatment and worse outcomes.”

Dr. Hartman tackled the myth that melanin is a free pass from sun protection.

“Melanin gives an SPF of about 13; we need 30,” he said. “No one is immune to sun damage.”

He emphasized that, even beyond cancer, the risk of hyperpigmentation is a reason to wear sunscreen daily.

“If you’re paying for lasers or battling dark spots, sunscreen is non-negotiable,” he said.

Chemical and mineral sunscreens both can be useful, Dr. Hartman said, but he urged patients to prioritize finding something they will actually use.

“The best sunscreen is the one you’ll wear,” he said.

ADVOCACY, RESEARCH, AND REPRESENTATION

Throughout the program, speakers emphasized the role of trusted media voices in shaping public understanding.

“Dermatologists are the experts,” Dr. Bhanusali said, “but we need your help fighting misinformation.”

Whether discussing hair care, sun protection, or social media fads, the dermatologists all came back to one theme: patients with skin of color deserve care that is safe, scientifically sound, and culturally competent.

“Patients of color are seeking treatments, and we now have better tools than ever,” Dr. Elbuluk said, “but we must continue pushing for more research, representation, and education.”