The cosmetics industry is full of products claiming to increase skin luminosity, featuring reflective minerals intended to give skin a “glow.” But make-up is just a temporary solution. Aesthetic physicians know that it is possible to improve the tone and texture of the skin for a dewy look without makeup. And SkinCeuticals offers a product to help.
Glycolic 10 Renew Overnight is formulated to gently exfoliate to reveal clearer skin and more even skin tone. Importantly, our formulators devised a product that delivers free acid value of 10% glycolic acid and 2% phytic acid. That means that each application of the product delivers the key ingredients in these concentrations. Some developers may add high concentrations of active hydroxy acids into their formulations, but without correct formulation parameters, it is not clear how much free acid is actually delivered when the product is used.
Topically applied hydroxy acids have well-established action for exfoliation. However, they can cause irritation. With this in mind, Glycolic 10 Renew Overnight offers two important features. The formulation contains a soothing complex intended to help form a protective barrier, lock in hydration, and provide comfort. Additionally, the unique inverse emulsion technology produces a moisturizing, rich base.
Patients can benefit from use of this formulation to help provide a more even skin tone and to increase luminosity. Importantly, best results come when patients also use a high-quality sunscreen—and SkinCeuticals offers several options—that will help prevent further changes in pigmentation and help defend against new signs of aging. Of course, all patients should be using SPF each day. Glycolic 10 Renew Overnight is versatile. It can be used alone or for patients who plan to or have undergone aesthetic procedures.
— Lyndsay Zotian, PharmD/MBA
What are the key ingredients of Glycolic 10 Renew Overnight?
Elizabeth Houshmand, MD: The main ingredient is Glycolic acid 10%. Glycolic acid is a well-known alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), derived from vegetable sources. It is able to help exfoliate and helps to remove dead skin cells from the surface. By exfoliating and breaking up cellular cohesions, it allows for you to see a more even skin tone. With consistent use over time, it is helpful for improving both texture and pigment.
Phytic acid 2% is a different type of mild acid that also is used for exfoliation and known to support skin brightening. Studies show that the combination of phytic acid with glycolic acid works well to help improve overall skin tone. The combination of the agents provides synergistic benefits.1
The soothing complex has a combination of jojoba and sunflower seed waxes to further enhance tolerability and support the skin barrier.
What are potential limitations of these AHAs? How does the formulation of Glycolic 10 Renew Overnight address these?
Dr. Houshmand: With most topical products, I think limitations are patient dependent. It’s important to understand the patient’s goals as well as to determine any underlying contributors to discoloration or unevenness. There are many different types of skin discoloration and potential contributing factors, and failure to address these will affect outcomes.
An effective cosmetic AHA product will have a high concentration of acid formulated at an appropriately acidic pH. Sometimes with AHAs there are concerns about tolerability, which can be related to both the pH and free acid values. Glycolic 10 Renew Overnight has 10% of free glycolic acid and 2% of phytic acid at a low pH and also contains a soothing complex to help ensure tolerability while still providing effective exfoliation and improvement in skin tone.
Another important feature of Glycolic 10 Renew Overnight is the base, which is called an inverse emulsion. This is an important feature for encapsulating the acid, maintaining the formulation pH, providing stability, and enhancing tolerability. The texture of the resulting formulation is smooth and rich and easy to spread.
How was your study designed and what did you find?
Dr. Houshmand: I conducted a 12-week study that enrolled 15 female patients.2 There was a wide range of ages from mid-20s all the way to early 70s. We had a wide range of Fitzpatrick skin types from II to VI. Subjects used sunscreen each day and a mild facial cleanser but no other skincare products for the duration of the study. I expected some improvement in texture and skin tone but I was really impressed with the results achieved.
We started to notice improvement around week 4, especially in skin tone. Patients of all Fitzpatrick skin tones experienced improvement in skin tone. This was a really remarkable improvement for patients using one skincare product. And the formulation was very well tolerated.
At weeks 8 through 12, subjects achieved maximum improvement in tone. Patient self-assessments reflected improvements in luminosity, texture, and tone.
What is notable about the effect across all skin tones?
Dr. Houshmand: In my practice in Dallas, I see patients of all ages and skin types. I love treating ethnic skin. Both during my dermatology and internal medicine residencies, I have had significant exposure to patients of all etnicties and skin trypes and understand the intricacies. I understand you have to be very gentle with darker skin types and you have to worry about two things. A lot of patients say, “Doc, I don’t want to be lighter. I just want to even out my dark spots.” Two is understanding that there’s a balance of inflaming the skin versus lightening dark spots. So I think it’s critical to have that understanding.
Another point is that a lot of patients with olive skin or darker don’t realize they need sunscreen. They say, “I don’t sunburn.” They need education on the use of UV avoidance and sunscreen to prevent pigmentation changes. Sunscreen use was helpful in combination with Glycolic 10 Renew Overnight in our study.
Patients need to have counseling on expectations that improvement will be gradual over the first few weeks of product use. This encourages consistent use, so that they use the product every night, and will achieve results in a few weeks. Educate patients on when to apply and how much to apply. Also, remind them to shake up the product to distribute those acids.
How are you using Glycolic 10 Renew Overnight in your practice?
Dr. Houshmand: This a wonderful at-home option on its own for patients of all ages who are looking to optimize skin tone, texture, and quality.
It’s also great as a prep. I like to use this in patients who may be planning to do a series of peels or a laser treatment. I usually will recommend they use Glycolic 10 Renew Overnight at home for four to six weeks, take a week break, and then we do our in-office treatments or chemical peels. Using this as a prep helps to exfoliate the skin, so that whatever we do in clinic will be optimized.
It’s also a great maintenance, especially for someone who doesn’t want to or doesn’t have the budget or the time to come in for repeat in-office procedures. Additionally, it is a great option for patients who have completed a course of hydroquinone.
Patients often say they want that dewy skin or a skin glow. That’s what this product delivers; It’s breaking up the cellular cohesion and giving that overall glow.
1. Sarkar R, et al. Comparative evaluation of efficacy and tolerability of glycolic acid, salicylic mandelic acid and phytic acid combination peels in melasma. Dermatol Surg. 2016;42(3):384–91.
2. Houshmand EB. Effect of glycolic acid, phytic acid, soothing complex containing Emulsion on Hyperpigmentation and skin luminosity: A clinical evaluation. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2021 Mar;20(3):776-780.
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