Glycolic 10 Renew Overnight

Cleopatra bathed in sour milk, as Dr. Houshmand points out, to benefit from the cutaneous effects of lactic acid, an alpha hydroxy acid. In the millennia since her heyday, science has come to better understand the actions of AHAs and, thankfully, yielded better ways to harness those effects.

But the fact that AHAs are available topically in a range of skincare products does not necessarily mean that their benefits are readily available. In fact, evidence shows that many products don't deliver to the skin sufficient concentrations of AHA to yield meaningful results.

SkinCeuticals has been focused on the science of AHAs—and antioxidants—for more than three decades, and we are pleased to introduce a true innovation in topical AHA-based therapy.

These days, patients still crave that quantifiable skin glow. SkinCeuticals' latest innovation, Glycolic 10 Renew Overnight is formulated for nightly application to increase cellular turnover, refine skin texture, and reveal a lasting skin radiance. It is composed of a true free acid value of 10%, meaning that it truly delivers 10% glycolic acid to the skin with each application. This relatively high free acid value sets Glycolic 10 Renew Overnight apart from other products on the market. This product also has the addition of phytic acid, leading to an increase in the acid concentration, yet a reduction in skin irritation. 

Through its strong partnership with physicians and skincare professionals, SkinCeuticals understands the importance of a positive skincare experience for optimal patient outcomes. This product is formulated to be strong yet gentle, with good tolerability across a range of skin types for concerns such as hyperpigmentation, fine lines and wrinkles, and to maintain the look of in-office chemical peels.

This product can be positioned for pre-conditioning the skin for a chemical peel, in between chemical peels, and as a stand-alone nightly product.  It can be used on alternate evenings with other exfoliating products, such as retinol. 

Glycolic 10 Overnight Renew is the latest anti-aging innovation in the SkinCeuticals portfolio of products.  Delivering a true free acid level of 10% to increase cellular turnover, reduce discolorations, and result in a quantifiable skin glow!

Glycolic 10 Renew Overnight

What are the benefits of alpha hydroxy acids, particularly glycolic acid, for skin aging? Where do they fit into a daily skin care routine?

Elizabeth Houshmand, MD: Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) have been used since the time of Cleopatra for skin beautification. In the modern era, alpha hydroxy acids have been used for many years for wrinkles and photoaging. They have been shown to stimulate the production of collagen and elastin, which improves wrinkling, roughness, and mottled pigmentation of photodamaged or photoaged skin with daily use.

The most commonly used alpha hydroxy is glycolic acid, because it can penetrate the skin. A lot of good evidence-based literature shows effectiveness with very few side effects. Additionally, glycolic acid is an exfoliant.

What are some key considerations for selecting a topical formulation containing glycolic acid? What is “free acid value”?

Dr. Houshmand: The free acid value of an AHA is responsible for cell renewal stimulation. For skin renewal, a lower pH and a higher concentration of acid is more effective. Research studies showed that it's best to have 50-75% of the AHA in the free acid form. More often than not, over the counter products will usually fall in the 0-12% free acid value range; 4% free acid is the threshold minimum for skin renewal. With the Glycolic 10 Renew Overnight, we're at 10%, which is ideal for skin shedding without excess irritation.

At very low concentrations, acids can act as moisturizers. At 2-4%, acids help for softer, more even skin and increases in glycosaminoglycan. Around 4-8% is the ideal concentration for increased cell turnover and glowing, dewy skin. At 8-12%, increased cell turnover and moderate increases of collagen deposition occur.

Glycolic 10 Renew Overnight includes both glycolic acid plus phytic acid. Phytic acid is an antioxidant that helps to fend off the free radicals that cause skin aging. It helps to prevent blackheads and actually shrinks the pores by consuming the calcium that helps convert fluid skin oils to a wax.

How do you recommend patients use Glycolic 10 Renew Overnight? Who are ideal candidates for use?

Dr. Houshmand: This is a wonderful product for patients with sensitive skin, and especially those with photoaging, that want glowing, dewy skin, or improved overall radiance. This product can address uneven tone, coarse texture, and the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

I have patients use a mild, gentle cleanser each morning, followed by an antioxidant like C E Ferulic, and then a sunscreen. In the evening they'll use a mild cleanser, and then they'll use Glycolic 10 Renew Overnight every night. If they have rosacea, or more sensitive skin, they use it every other night.

I think a retinol is also nice to have on-board for certain patients. I think it is a lot for the skin to use these on the same night. An alternating regimen would be best, so your patients get the benefits of the AHA and then the benefits of the retinol. 

This product has been shown useful on Hispanic, middle-eastern, Indian, Asian, and Caucasian skin. We had males in the study, as well, and the product was well-received. This is also a good product for millennials with minimal signs of photoaging or who want to be proactive in treating the skin.

I advise patients to shake the product well before dispensing and to use just a pea-size amount for the entire face. Nighttime use is recommended, and patients may be advised of a slight tingling sensation upon application. Some of my patients called it a “spicy” formulation. That “warmth” upon application quickly subsides. With any acid—glycolics or retinols—you absolutely should use a good moisturizer, one that has hyaluronic acid or Triple Lipid Repair from SkinCeuticals five minutes after applying the product with an active. 

Would you recommend this product for patients who are having in-office peels?

Dr. Houshmand: Absolutely. I have them use the topical glycolic formulation as a prep for about four to eight weeks, then I have them stop for a week before the peel. I like to do a series of at least three chemical peels, depending on what their goals are and what we're treating.

I have patients wait about 10 to 14 days after the peel to restart their glycolic and have them discontinue use one week before their next peel.

Elizabeth Houshmand, MD
• Double Board Certified Dermatologist based in Dallas, TX
• Find her on Instagram: @HoushmandMD