An Update on Topical Antioxidants

SkinCeuticals has been dedicated to the field of topical antioxidants. Our research has shown that topical antioxidant delivery is effective and efficient for improving healthy skin appearance. Starting with advanced formulations of topical vitamin C, we documented an ability to improve the signs of skin aging linked to oxidative stress. We have maintained the importance of synergistic combinations of antioxidants.

Importantly, skincare consumers and aesthetic physicians must be aware that all antioxidants are not created equal. Many of these compounds tend to be unstable and, therefore, difficult to formulate. Furthermore, there can be variability in molecular structure that will affect the bioavailability of given antioxidants. Without an advanced degree in chemistry and product formulation, the task of identifying ideal antioxidant products can seem daunting.

SkinCeuticals remains dedicated to making the selection and use of antioxidant skincare simple. Inspired by our founder, we remain committed to excellence in antioxidant formulation and continue to advance antioxidant science. When you recommend our products, you can be assured that the proper antioxidants have been used, with the proper formulation, and in the right combinations to offer optimum effect.

What is the benefit of topically applied antioxidants?

Dr. Kwan: We know that sun exposure causes DNA damage, as well as the formation of free radicals that can damage connective tissue, such as collagen and elastin. I explain to patients that we use sunscreen to help protect the skin by preventing UV from penetrating the skin, acting as a shield for outer protection.

Antioxidants however, work from the inside out, neutralizing free radicals that form from exposure to excess UV radiation and pollution.

The potential benefits of topically applied antioxidants are improvements in the visible signs of external skin aging such as skin texture, tone, and clarity.

Topically applied antioxidants lead to environmental protection and help correct the external appearance of the skin.

What do you look for in a topical antioxidant formulation?

Dr. Kwan: There are many different antioxidants on the market. Number one, obviously, buy from a reputable brand that has some data to substantiate the results of applying those antioxidants topically.

SkinCeuticals pioneered the field of topical antioxidant skincare and has strict parameters for product development and testing. For example, they conduct in vitro and ex vivo tests on individual ingredients, but they conduct their clinical tests in vivo with final formulations.

This is essential in order to assure a topical formulation will confer the intended benefit.

Specifically speaking of vitamin C, you need the L-ascorbic acid form of vitamin C. L-ascorbic acid is very unstable, so it needs to be properly integrated into a formulation and packaged to preserve its potency. It also needs to be formulated at a high concentration (between 10-20%) and a low pH (2.5 to 3.5).

Can antioxidants have synergistic effects? What are your preferred antioxidant combinations?

Dr. Kwan: My favorite combination is C E Ferulic. Vitamin C is water soluble. Vitamin E is lipid soluble. To get those two in combination was very difficult. SkinCeuticals then added ferulic acid. We know for that formulation that the ingredients are synergistic, with scientific data showing the combination is eight times more effective than bare skin.

Outside of a combination formulation, patients can use two different antioxidants but usually not applied at the same time. For example, a patient could use vitamin C in the morning and resveratrol at night. These antioxidants should be applied directly on clean skin in order to be absorbed. Then, they can be followed by sunscreen during the day or moisturizers at night.

Do you tailor regimens based on skin types?

Dr. Kwan: I I have a certain philosophy about using skin care. For morning routines, I recommend patients to use an antioxidant to prevent against free radical damage, followed by a sunscreen. It is best applied to clean skin for the most effective penetration into the epidermis prior to the addition of any other products.

In terms of skin types, for men or those with oily skin types, I like the SkinCeuticals Phloretin CF gel. It is a light, gel based texture that comes in a pump dispenser. Phloretin CF has been scientifically studied to protect the skin against damage from exposure to ozone. Ozone exposure leads to lipid peroxidation, protein oxidation, and antioxidant depletion.

For my normal to dry skin patients, my preference is for C E Ferulic used each morning. Like Phloretin CF, C E Ferulic is demonstrated useful against ozone exposure and visible external signs of aging via improvements in fine line, firmness, elasticity, and wrinkles.

Can antioxidants be used around the eyes?

Dr. Kwan: For antioxidants around the eyes, you must select products that are safe to use on the sensitive periocular skin. That's usually a lower concentration than what you would use on the remainder of the face.

AOX+ Eye Gel is a serum-in-a-gel that contains a combination of 5% pure L-Ascorbic Acid, 1% phloretin, and 0.5% ferulic acid, and botanicals. This is due to the periocular sensitivity to certain products of some patients. AOX eye gel has been very tolerable for my patient base.

Are antioxidants appropriate for patients undergoing procedures?

Dr. Kwan: When we're talking about nonablative devices—I do a fair amount of clear + brilliant and Fraxel—I usually put C E Ferulic on right after. Studies show that healing time is better using C E Ferulic in conjunction with these non-ablatives

SkinCeuticals' line of Vitamin Cs are also very effective post ablative lasers. They have been safety tested and shown to help speed wound healing leading to less downtime for patients. SkinCeuticals Vitamin C's have also been shown safe to use after microneedling procedures.

William Kwan, MD is a board-certified dermatologist, practicing both medical and cosmetic dermatology in San Francisco, CA.