Trends in Skincare

From oxidation to pigmentation and photo aging, new skincare solutions continue to provide aesthetic practitioners with greater abilities to help patients. Modern Aesthetics® asked Editorial Board members who specialize in skincare to summarize recent trends they have found most impactful. Hear from more board members at ModernAesthetics.com.

SUNEEL CHILUKURI, MD, FAAD, FACMS

The most significant trend in aesthetics and skincare involves regenerative medicine. More and more people are asking about preventative skin care in addition to harnessing our body’s natural healing ability. While some of these products—such as exosomes, polydeoxyribonucleotides, hyaluronic acid, and sunscreens—have been around for a decade or more, the current formulations are the best I have seen in more than 25 years of aesthetic practice. Communication factors called exosomes have changed our long-term patient results while enhancing rapid short-term recovery. Currently, the greatest amount of scientific research is from ExoCoBio in Korea with products being distributed by Benev in the United States. An Italian company, Promoitalia, has created unique blends of synthetic exosomes combined with three molecular weight non-cross-linked hyaluronic acids to apply at home to enhance results following in-office procedures. Rejuran is the world leader in polynucleotides (PN) and polydeoxyribonucleotides (PDRN), which provide a “scaffolding” for our bodies to heal. These technologies can revolutionize long-term wound healing and scars. Hydrinity has revolutionized the use of topical hyaluronic acid to best prepare the skin for ultimate in-office corrective and regenerative procedures. B.A.I. Biosciences has created a unique diamond core technology that corrects prior skin damage while preventing cellular senescence. Finally, we are exploring more about the natural skin microbiome and how we can harvest the natural flora on our skin to heal and regenerate collagen and elastin. Crown Aesthetics is leading the microbiome space with 13 years of research leading to a commercial product launched in the past 18 months. Truly, we are at the pinnacle of aesthetics and skin care; I’m excited to see how much more we can achieve for our patients.

AMANDA DOYLE, MD, FAAD

Diamond-augmented zinc oxide (ND-ZnO) technology represents an innovative new breakthrough in skincare because it combines the sun-protective properties of zinc oxide with the regenerative capacity of nanodiamonds. Because of the unique composition, zinc oxide in this form provides enhanced UV protection and a significant reduction in reactive oxygen species (ROS) generation. It has also shown to be a significant dermal fibroblast proliferator and it has prevented and reversed age-associated collagen degradation.

MONA SADEGHPOUR, MD, FAAD

One of the hottest trends we saw over the summer was the idea of “glass skin,” popularized by Korean skincare lines, including viral Korean masks. Masks have always been popular, especially in the Gen Z age group in the US, as a quick and relatively inexpensive way to obtain a brighter and more hydrated, “glowy” look, or an inexpensive mini-facial. However, viral videos on social media showing before-and-afters using these masks have globalized them to a wider and more diverse age group population. Some popular ingredients in these masks include collagen, hyaluronic acid, glycerine, ceramides, Vitamin C and E, niacinamide, different fruit or plant extracts (such as avocado, rice, mushroom, pomegranate, and sage), snail mucin, peptides, centella asiatica, and allantoin, among others.

MARA WEINSTEIN VELEZ, MD, FAAD

Hot topic? 100%, exosomes! Exosomes are extracellular vesicles derived from stem cells that carry “cargo” and have the ability to transmit signals to cells to help them regenerate or activate for a specific purpose. They have the potential to be useful in so many medical and dermatologic applications, including post-treatment care following lasers or microneedling for facial rejuvenation, hair restoration, wound healing, scar remodeling, and many more. We are just scratching the surface of what is possible with exosomes, but we can’t be trusting of every company selling them. It is important to vet companies and make sure they are ethically sourced, traceable back to the donor, third-party CLIA tested, have a low passage rate and are never lyophilized. So far, exosomes derived from Wharton’s jelly mesenchymal stem cells have the best track record. More to come!

SHEILA BARBARINO, MD, FACS

A few skincare trends I've noticed are coupling skincare with procedures like p-tiox and injections with neuromodulators and energy-based drug delivery. It's all the rage! Additionally, there has been a push for simplifying skin routines.

AZZA HALIM, MD, MS

Many new skincare products are more focused on hormonal changes in the skin as well as skin microbiome, which is something that was never a focus in skincare products. Also, skincare artificial intelligence allows for treatment customization based on each individual skin type, whereas in past, the focus was based on normal, oily, or dry skin. As for treatment protocols, we are also seeing more variety in methodology of product delivery, whether for home or in-office use to maximize penetration. Another trend is sustainable clean-beauty for Gen Z as younger age groups are getting on board with starting preventive care earlier than late; also, multi-benefit products are helping maintain consistency for long-term results. Such trends reflect a shift toward gentle, holistic, and environmentally responsible skincare practices by younger and more mature ages.