Time Test: Skincare Brands Experts Stand By

Skincare trends may come and go, but some physician-dispensed brands have truly stood the test of time. Modern Aesthetics® magazine asked aesthetic experts about the skincare products that have the longest history of dispensing in their practices. We also asked what over-the-counter brands have earned their loyalty. Finally, since sometimes even the best products disappear from the market, we asked if there is any product no longer available that each doctor wishes s/he could have back for their patients.

Here’s what they had to say.

No One-Hit Wonders

By Mona Gohara, MD

The SkinMedica line is the one I’ve most consistently dispensed. I believe in science and efficacy. I’m not into one-hit wonders. SkinMedica has sustained the test of time and remains one of the most reliable products for those interested in rejuvenation.

In the OTC space, the Dove cleansing bar is the original non-soap syndet that was the model for many successors.

Hydroquinone in Focus

By Joel Schlessinger, MD

Hydroquinone 2% is one of the older remedies that I have long recommended, although it is no longer fully available. It is unfortunate, as this is something that, in particular, was helpful for skin of color and provided an easy yet affordable method of improving skin dyspigmentation. Hydroquinone 4% is, luckily, still available, but has been in and out of limbo while it was under consideration. It appears it is safe for now, but I do worry about it.

Hydrocortisone 1% is the over-the-counter option that I work with on a daily basis. The benefits of its usage are vast, and it still rivals other, stronger forms of topical corticosteroids for face and neck use.

My generation of dermatologists was just past the “age of compounding remedies.” It is sad, as I believe there were many effective treatments that were lost when giants, such as Haines Ely, MD and Jerry Litt, MD passed away. Additionally, even if these remedies were still available, the simple act of finding a pharmacist who knows the “art” of compounding (and performs it at a reasonable cost) is gone.

Unsurpassed AHAs

By Ted Lain, MD, MBA

Glytone started in the 1930s based on the efficacy of free glycolic acid, and the efficacy and tolerability of AHA has not been surpassed yet. I appreciate that they list the Percent Free Acid Value (PFAV) on the products. I have yet to find a better system for keratosis pilaris than their KP Kit.

In terms of my OTC pick, it’s easy: Vaseline. With origins dating back to 1870, Vaseline has truly stood the test of time. I turn to Vaseline for post-procedure care, post-biopsy, and for moisturizing and protecting extremely dry or cracked skin in small areas.

I miss RevaleSkin. It contained Coffee Berry Extract, which had science to support the claim of it being the most powerful antioxidant available in skincare products at the time. Antioxidants are incredibly important to quench free radicals and prevent their damage to skin’s structure and function. I would love to see head-to-head trials comparing the best antioxidants of today against the RevaleSkin products.

Familiar Names

By Cheryl Burgess, MD

Obagi is my longest-dispensed brand, hands down! When there is a stubborn case of melasma, at least the patient is willing to try it because they are familiar with the name. This line of multiple products containing 4% hydroquinone was one of the first skincare lines to address melasma.

Cetaphil cleanser, lotion, and cream have been around a long time over-the-counter. Most consumers are familiar with the brand. These products are tolerable in all skin types, including sensitive skin, maintains the neutral skin pH, and are fragrance-free.