Q&A: Optimizing Skincare Routines

Joelle O’Connor, LE, has worked for some of the most prominent cosmetic practices in the New York and New Jersey area over the past two decades, and currently serves as cosmetic coordinator for Schweiger Dermatology Group in Hackensack, New Jersey. She spoke with Modern Aesthetics about creating better skincare regimens for patients.

WHAT COMMON DEFICIENCIES DO YOU SEE IN PATIENTS’ SKINCARE REGIMENS?

When I go deep diving into patients' skincare regimens, the most common issue is that they are almost always using the wrong products for their skin. Over the last few years, the social media skincare revolution with the rise of “skincare influencers” has caused, in my opinion, a great deal of harm to the health of everyone’s skin. Hey, even I’m guilty of going down the TikTok rabbit hole of skincare, looking at products and debating if I want to try them. Sometimes I do, and when I do, I am rapidly reminded why that was a bad idea in the first place. I always tell patients that just because something worked for an influencer, or your best friend, or your second cousin twice removed, that doesn’t mean it’s going to work for your skin. There is a lot of misinformation about how much product to be using, what is necessary and what is not, and what is appropriate at what age.

HOW IMPORTANT IS MOISTURIZER IN THE WINTER, SPECIFICALLY?

Moisturizer is an essential component of any regimen but is especially important in the winter. As temperatures drop, humidity decreases, and winds are biting, your skin takes a beating. The drop in atmospheric humidity combined with cold temperatures accelerates the evaporation of moisture from your skin. We try our best to bundle up and protect our bodies, so it is most often that our faces are taking the brunt of irritation and dryness.

WHAT CHARACTERISTICS DO YOU LOOK FOR IN A MOISTURIZER?

While the “feel” of a facial moisturizer is very important to most people, the one characteristic I look for is the quality of ingredients. I look for hydrators that help to repair, protect, and sustain the health of the skin. For example, Bioelements Crucial Moisture adds my favorite skin protector, dimethicone, which is ultra lubricating and protective to the skin barrier. It helps to prevent moisture loss by creating a protective barrier while also protecting the skin against further irritation.

HOW IMPORTANT AN INGREDIENT CAN ADAPTOGENS BE?

Adaptogens are a natural substance (generally herbs or plants) that are used to enhance the body’s ability to resist and adapt to stress, and they are the newest skincare buzz in the wellness world. They have been utilized in Chinese and Ayurvedic medicine for hundreds of years, and when added to skincare products, can absolutely help improve skin health. Adaptogens can help balance the skin, reduce redness, improve and strengthen the skin barrier, improve overall skin health, and brighten the complexion. Some of the most common adaptogens are mushrooms, but also include Ashwagandha, Asian ginseng, and Centella asiatica. One of my absolute favorite skincare products that contains this new technology is the Bioelements Barrier Fix Daily Hydrator, which contains hyaluronic acid and silver ear mushroom (the adaptogen) to hold hydration deep in the skin, beta glucan to soothe an irritated skin barrier, and a concentrated blend of ceramides, lipids, and cholesterol to help restore barrier function, prevent continuous water loss, and enhance overall moisture for more comfortable skin.

WHAT KIND OF SKINCARE REGIMEN DO YOU RECOMMEND GENERALLY?

Each regimen I recommend is custom tailored to each patient’s unique skin needs, however, each regimen revolves around the same three things: gentle cleanser, appropriate moisturizer, and a physical SPF 30-50 sunscreen that contains zinc oxide. Recommending regimens to patients is never a “cookie cutter” approach. I ensure that the products that I work with are of the highest pharmaceutical grade quality with the most natural ingredients. Skincare should be healing, not harming.