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Topical Probiotics for Skin Health
By: Erin Gilbert, MD
In each edition, Modern Aesthetics® asks top aesthetic physicians about the newest cosmeceuticals in their practices. This month, Erin Gilbert, MD, PhD, FAAD talks about products from myBody. Dr. Gilbert is in private practice in New York.
Which MyBody products do you recommend to your patients? who are the ideal candidates to use these products?
I like Glowbiotic Probiotic Instant Resurfacing Pads for patients who have normal or oily skin, but not for patients using higher strength prescription retinoids or with sensitive skin. These leave-on pads contain an azelaic acid derivative and ammonium lactate, which can cause stinging and redness in this subset of patients.
Myhero Multivitamin Youth Serum is a multifaceted product that contains growth factor stimulating peptides, R2X (0.3% retinol combined with a retinoic acid ester), as well as several proprietary brightening agents. I generally recommend this product to my patients older than 35-40 years old with concerns about loss of skin elasticity, wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation. I find that it is easy to layer with other products and never causes acne breakouts, both of which are important considerations for me since I like to create multi-step regimens for my patients.
I like SledgeHammer for my patients with melasma, solar lentigines and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. It contains liposomal 4% hydroquinone in a cosmetically elegant base.
What are some key differentiating features of the MyBody line? how does it differ from some other lines popular with physicians?
The MyBody line is extensively based on probiotic and prebiotic ingredients. Topical probiotics contain bacteria or bacterial fragments that interact with Toll-like receptors. These are found on the surface of both keratinocytes and macrophages. The interaction between the bacteria or fragments of the bacteria and these cells induces microbiological responses that have been shown to reduce skin inflammation, boost the skin’s immunity, and likely even induce collagen synthesis. These effects are beneficial in treating skin that is inflamed, as in acne and rosacea, as well as in treating skin aging.
Probiotics have become the topical ingredient du jour. I believe that this is because people have become more interested in incorporating more “natural” products in their skincare routine. They have been included in a wide range of product lines due to their calming effects on inflammation, their ability to balance the skin’s immune responses and their stimulation of skin repair systems.
Since we are still in the early days of understanding all of the benefits of probiotics in skincare, I expect that we will see products developed over the coming years that target skin concerns in a more precise way. Based on the research conducted so far, I expect that we will see a lot more products designed to treat acne, rosacea, and eczema as well as other skin conditions where bacterial imbalance are among the major causes.
I’ve been getting a great reaction from my patients! Patients like the results they are getting and the feel and clean quality of the products (they have no noticeable fragrance).
Are you pairing the products with any other skincare or procedures? If so, do you have any favorite combinations?
I always recommend a range of products and have patients layer them or use them in different areas. For example, I’m a big fan of Skinceuticals A.G.E. Eye Complex, Phloretin CF Gel as well as La Roche Posay Anthelios 50 Mineral Ultra Light Sunscreen Fluid. This is my favorite combination, with MyBody MyHero added at night over a retinoid, believe it or not (since it contains retinol). Almost everybody tolerates it well.
I add Glowbiotics pads several times a week to a basic winter regimen (Cetaphil Gentle Cleanser, Skinceuticals A.G.E. Eye Complex and Phloretin CF Gel/C E Ferulic, followed by NIA24 Intensive Recovery Complex followed by La Roche Posay Anthelios 50 Mineral Ultra Light Sunscreen Fluid).